In true backpacking spirit Jessica and I attempted to find the cheapest possible way to get from Hanoi to Ninh Binh, a small city several hours south of Hanoi. Our solution: a 3 hour local bus ride! Our driver, seemingly determined to not slow the bus below 60 miles an hour (just like Keanu Reeves in Speed!), honked, swerved, and sped past every goat, man, bike, and truck on a bumpy highway with approximately 1.5 lanes. Besides fearing for our lives, having locals become sick all over the bus (apparently the Vietnamese are quite prone to motion sickness), and sitting with some very strange luggage (living/recently dead animals), we made it to Ninh Binh!
Akin to stumbling upon an oasis in the desert, Jessica and I wandered aimlessly from the local bus stop with our packs on in the 95+ยบ heat, until we finally found a traveling couple who pointed us in the direction of great hotel that was inexpensive and had a friendly staff. We quickly ditched our packs and got acquainted with the local landscape. Ninh Binh itself is not much of a town, but is a wonderful outpost for some truly stunning natural treasures.
On our first full day in town, we rented some motorbikes and drove to Tam Coc, a river system that meanders through rice patties and beneath limestone caves that jut up everywhere across the landscape. In attempting to find the river, we got lost more than once, which ended up being a blessing in disguise; by the time we arrived at the river, the groups that are packed in daily from the tour buses had just left, leaving the often bustling river empty for Jessica and me. We got lucky--despite having a boat operator that insisted that we rowed the boat (what did we pay her for?), and then told us we didn't tip her enough.
Attempting to find Tam Coc led us down a bunch of small roads, and over some incredible landscape. Despite the omninous clouds, we remained dry (despite sweating) all day!
The Tam Coc River
The river took us through multiple limestone caves
Our nice but pushy boat 'co-driver' (we did a lot of the work).
Our next stop that day was the Hang Mua pagoda, set atop one of the tallest limestone formations in the middle of the rice paddies. The steps ascending hundreds of feet into the misty air were well worth it, as the view from the top was breathtaking!
Preston nobley ascends the stairs
A dragon statue guarding the mountain.
From the top of the mountain--apparently a hang out for local teen sweethearts that play sad pop ballads on their cell phones--offers incredible views of the landscape below, including the Tam Coc river from which we had just arrived.
The way downs was just as steep as the way up! Needless to say, we were both sore the next day.
A giant statue of Buddha sat impressively atop the Bia Dinh temple complex
After returning home, we showered, ate, and boarded the overnight bus to Hue!
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